Learn to Sew

Jilbaab
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This style of scarf works best if the fabric is a bit stretchy.

tubestyless

  • Purchase .5m (1/2yd) of fabric.
  • Cut a rectangle 56cm x 48cm (22"x19").
  • Fold back one long edge (wrong sides together) 12cm (4.5").

Diagrams:

tubescarf

  • Use a decorative stitch with matching thread: stitch 1/2" away from the folded edge.
  • Stitch along the first raw edge with a straight stitch.
  • Hem the bottom raw edge as desired.
  • Fold in half, right sides together, Diagram Two.
  • Stitch the vertical seam to form a tube. Fold out.

How to wear this underscarf

Wear this underscarf like a headband, with all of your hair in the "tube". I usually pull it down around my neck, then pull it back so my hair is swept off from my face and neck.

 

bonnetscarf45

  • Purchase .5m (1/2yd) of fabric. You will also need a piece of 1/4"wide elastic, 13cm (5")long.
  • Cut two rectangles with the following dimensions:
    • 34cm x 50cm [13"x19"] This is the front piece.
    • 28cm x 40cm [11"x16"] This is the back piece.
  • Fold the larger rectangle in half (right sides together). Stitch around the edges leaving an opening for turning. Diagram One. Turn right side out, fold in the raw edges of the opening and stitch closed.
  • Fold the smaller rectangle in half and repeat the same procedure as above. Diagram One.
  • To stitch the front and back together Refer to Diagram Two.
    • Find the centre of the front and the center of the back, mark with a pin.
    • Pin the two pieces, seam edges together, matching centre points.
    • The easiest way to sew is from the centre, down to the end of the back piece, then from the centre again down to the other end. *Don't fret about accuracy, just eyeball it.
  • Place the piece of elastic along the folded edge of the back. Stretch it fit the width of the back piece. Hold the elastic in place at either end and stitch in place with tiny ziz-zag stitches. This will gather the back.
  • See Side-View Diagram of completed scarf.
  • Place the "bonnet" on your head and tie the two long end at the back of your neck.
bonnet1
 
bonnet2
 
bonnet3
 
 

trianglescarf

  • Purchase .7m (1yd) of fabric.
  • Cut a large square of fabric: 70cm (27") square.
  • Fold the square in half diagonally, wrong sides together, pin in several places to hold in place.
  • Stitch across the front, approximately 2cm (1/2") from the folded edge. You could use a decorative stitch in matching thread or a simple straight stitch.
  • Stitch again 15cm (6") back from the folded edge.
  • Serge the raw edges or use a simple zig-zag stitch.

 

  • 115cm (45") wide fabric will give you a Khimaar that's anywhere from wrist-length to finger-tip length, depending on your height.
  • Purchase 2.5m (3yards) of fabric. Soft, lightweight, cotton material works best. If it's a bit stretchy, that's even better. Single-knits (a.k.a. "T-Shirt material") work great. You could also use lightweight silky polyester.
  • Fold in half, right sides together, with the fold at the top.
  • If the material is silky, pin in several places to prevent shifting.
  • Referring to the diagram: cut a large smooth curve from the bottom right to the top left corner. Points A-B.

khimaardiagram

  • Start by cutting a straight line, parallel to the raw edge, curve the line toward Point B, and end with a straight line, parallel to the left edge. This will ensure that the front and back of the khimar is straight and not in a "V" cut.
  • In order to make the front and back even, start Point "A", about 10cm (4") from the corner.
  • Sew up the front of the Khimaar, from Points A-C. Leaving the rest open for your face.
  • Try on the Khimaar. The face opening will probably need adjusting. It should fit snug under your chin.
  • Hem the face opening and lower edges of the Khimaar as desired.

 

  • With your arms at your sides, have someone measure from one wrist to the other going across the back of the shoulders.
  • Purchase twice this amount of 60" inch wide fabric.
  • Fold the left and right edges so that they meet in the center.
  • Pin in several places to hold the fabric in place.
  • Referring to the diagram: Cut a V-neck in the top layer of fabric.

shoulderabaya

  • Stitch the seam line across the top.
  • At the upper left and right corners, cut openings for your hands.
  • The center seam of the abayah may be closed in several ways:
  1. The easiest thing to do is simply stitch the entire seam all the way up to the neck.
  2. You could also stitch from the bottom, half-way up, then insert a long zipper, or even several snaps or velcro.
  • Cut the bottom of the abayah, large and round.
  • Finish the neck opening, and cuffs with satin ribbon or bias binding.
  • Hem the bottom.

 

This is the same as the headband Niqaab, except that a thin netting or mesh type fabric is stitched to the headband. This can stay atop the head for better visibility or flipped down to conceal the eyes.

  • Cut the rectangle headband about 4"inches wide x the length needed to go around the head.
  • Press a 1/4" hem along both long edges of the headband.
  • Fold the headband in half, lengthwise, wrong sides together.
  • Stitch the face cover to the bottom folded edge of the headband (with a slight seam allowance) leaving an opening slit for the eyes.
  • Pin the eye mesh into the open seam at the top of the headband, (i.e. between the folded hems), stitch the seam all the way along the headband.

 

niqabwitheyecover2

 

headbandniqab56

  • Cut a 4" wide rectangle. long enough to go around your head like a band, with a couple of inches overlapping - or if you prefer, make the band long enough to tie behind your head.
  • Press a 1/4" inch hem along both long edges of the rectangle band. Fold the band in half, lengthwise, wrong sides (pressed hems) together.
  • Cut a rectangle large enough to cover the face. Double if material is thin. Hem.
  • Find the center of the band and the center of the face cover. Match.
  • Pin the face cover in the slit of the band (i.e. between the folded hems)
  • Leave an opening for the eyes.
  • Sew the two pieces of the Niqaab together. Sewing from one side of the eye opening out the the end and from the other side of the eye opening out to the end. Refer to diagram:

headbandniqab1

**Note** This seam allowance needs to be very slight, otherwise the space for the eyes will not stay open.  Add snaps or velcro on the overlap of the headband, to close (unless it is made long enough to tie back).

 

blackcloth

  • For a single layer Niqaab: Cut a rectangle of fabric 13"x17".
  • Hem the two long sides and one short side.
  • Fold the unhemmed sided under 1/4", fold again 1/2" and stitch close to the edge of the fold.
  • Cut a length of 1/4" wide elastic, long enough to go around your head.
  • Pass the elastic through the 1/2" hem of the Niqaab.
  • Overlap the two ends of the elastic and stitch together firmly using tiny zigzag stitches.

**Note** Instead of elastic, ties could be added to either side of the Niqaab for tying behind the head.